Middle East Log 2007-9

Our travels today took us to the desert along the Dead Sea to the fortress of Masada. This fascinating historic monument to Jewish defiance and independence is today the crown jewel of Israel's sites.  Built by Herod the Great to protect him from the Jews over which he ruled and Cleopatra who coveted his kingdom it became the fortress redoubt for nearly one thousand Zealots after Jerusalem fell in the revolt of 66-70 AD. All but five committed suicide rather than submit to Rome after a three year holdout. It is a fascinating place to contemplate the will of a people to be free and the force of a great power to maintain its hold on those who want them gone. Israel's military still swears in its new recruits atop Masada with the words "never again".

En Gedi is the spot mentioned in I Samuel 23 where David hid from Saul. When Saul went into a cave to relieve himself David cut off a piece of his robe rather than run him through with a sword.  David's conscience troubled him and he engaged Saul in a exchange of words that must have left both asking why they were fighting each other. We read the words of their exchange in sight of the area's caves and wild goats, both of which are still plentiful.

Our next stop was Qumran where a group of ascetic first century Jewish monks lived and recorded the scriptures in a small communal settlement. In 70 AD as the Roman Tenth Legion marched through on the way to Masada they hid their scrolls in the caves, probably thinking they would be able to return to their cloistered work when the storm passed. They were wrong. The legions killed them as part of their purge of everything Jewish and the site was forgotten. The scrolls sat in the caves till they were found by a Bedouin shepherd more than fifty years ago. They became known as the Dead Sea scrolls and are considered by some the greatest archaeological find in Israel.

Our final stop was at the Wadi Kelt, about half way up the road to Jerusalem. Here you have an overlook of the Judean wilderness, Jericho and the distant hills of Jerusalem. We read some scriptures that described the area and enjoyed the view. My talk turned into a public Bible lecture as a couple of Bedouin kids rode up on a donkey and a family of hikers stopped to listen. You never know where opportunity comes.

Tomorrow we tour more of Jerusalem and then leave for Galilee.